Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Maurice White's Mic Stand

I always thought there was some kind of spiritual connection between Maurice White and some street called White Avenue. Actually, that's entirely untrue, I didn't even know his name until they announced on the radio that he had made the jump to Electric Kingdom two nights previous.... but in any case, I found this cast iron brake rotor on the side of White ave. which had his initials on it, so I figured he probably wanted me to make a microphone stand since it's already the correct size, shape, and weight for a base.
brake rotor
First disassembling the thing. Wow! that's a lot of grease.
cleaning out bearing

Using a punch to remove a bearing.
punching out bearing
What it looked like after cleaning and removing the parts.
brake hub inside clean
The bonus loot: two taper bearings, a cap, a nut, castle nut, toothed washer, cotter key, cap, etc.
parts from brake hub
Now turning an adapter for the 7/8" tubing to insert into the base.
turning adapter
I decided this would be fancy, so I bought some stainless tubing so it wouldn't looks like that ugly chrome plated one I have... this is the equivalent of the church buying gold candlesticks because brass aren't good enough.
mic stand tube adapter hub
Tapping a 3/8" set screw hole in the adapter.
tapping set screw hole
Then filing a flat on the 7/8 tubing.
filing flat on tube
set screw
Now tapping some holes in the bottom to secure the adapter to the base.
tapping securing holes
Somehow, this was the only way I could hold the next piece in the lathe to turn the diameter to match that of the bearing I removed.
turning gigolo token
The scrap piece fit into where the bearing was.
gigolo token in base
Sand beadblasting the base.
glass blasting hub
Pretty clean.
hub without rust
Guess what color White's mic stand gets painted? Hey, that doesn't look like semi-gloss, more like snow powder, seems the paint was clogged at first...
painting hub
The base pieces connected.
hub with hardware attached
Now for the height adjustment, I decided to make a collet, first turning the diameter to fit into the 7/8" tubing.
turning mic stand collet
Almost fit except for the weld seam inside the tubing.
collet piece
Filing the seam.
filing weld seam
Next before threading it, looking in the machinist's handbook to get the diameter dimension.
maurice white rice machinist handbook
Maurice, we need mo' rice!
Threading the 7/8"-14 thread
threading collet in lathe
Checking the thread with a nut.
testing thread with nut
Then drilling and boring for the 5/8" tube.
collet bored
Then threading a 5/8"-27 thread for the microphone clip. I want to know the menace who decided that 27 threads per inch would be the standard for microphone stands.... it's not even a standard thread size, and several of the lathes I've encountered don't even have 27 as an option. But mine does!
5/8"-27 thread
Now instead of welding this stuff together, I decided to use a brass rivet.
drilling rivet hole
Gives a much cleaner look too.
brass rivet in hole
Then after flattening the ends, I figured I'd letter stamp an M & W on either side.
Mostly successful, though letter stamping a curved surface proved to be harder than expected.
With the rivet I accidentally made an "anti-falls-through-the-floor" mechanism. This picture shows the hacksawing I did to make the collet.
mic stand with collet
At first I thought I could make the locking mechanism by putting some O-rings in internal groove I turned into the collet and then using the 7/8 nut to tighten it, which proved to be a massive failure.
some bogus setup
Then I remembered I have a camera tripod that has a smarter collet mechanism, so I borrowed the design. First tapering the top of the collet.
turning taper on collet
I figured I'd use the nut to connect the collet with the 7/8" tubing, so I bored out half of the thread to 7/8".
boring nut
The part in the lathe is the new locknut which I threaded internally with the 7/8" thread. I decided it would be easier to make the taper a separate piece so I could thread the piece all the way through. The scrap piece used for the tapered part happened to be a failed oil burner design.
making locknut
Turning the taper in the scrap piece.
turning internal collet taper
Then cutting off the part I needed.
cutting piece
Facing the tapered piece.
facing piece
The tapered piece fit into the locknut which goes over the collet which clamps the 5/8" tube and fits into the 7/8" tube which is held on with the 7/8" nut.... If any of that made any sense, it might make even less after this diagram:
mic stand diagram
As unnecessarily complicated this is, it actually worked. I don't have any way to powder coat the locknut at the moment, so I decided to just draw some symbols from the inside cover of All n All.
The name is Jupiter!!!!
...and of course, Squashy Grapefruit.
squashy grapefruit locknut
I found some stick-on pads at a garage sale to protect the floor.
floor pads

No comments:

Post a Comment

Hi folks, please only leave comments relative to the blog post. All spam will be removed and spammers will be blocked.

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.